Chobe National Park - Day 5

The plains of the Chobe waterfront are filled with wildlife (Chobe River is in the foreground)

It has been awhile since our last posting, summer becomes busy around here and it seems there are not enough hours in the day to accomplish all of our varied tasks. In this post we describe our experience at the Chobe waterfront where we encountered a plethora of wildlife along the Chobe River filling the and the plains adjacent to the waterfront.

A goose comes in for  landing on the Chobe River amongst a Great Egret, Saddle-bill Stork and ducks

The Chobe River originates in the highlands of Angola as the Cuando (also spelled Kwando) River and flows southeast through Zambia, where upon exiting the country it forms the border between Namibia and Botswana. At one time the river continued its southeastern flow, eventually merging with the waters of the Okavango Delta and continuing south, eventually the merged rivers filled Lake Makgadikgadi, which is now a seasonal swamp. An ancient uplift effectively cut off the southeastern flow of the Cuando River, diverting it to the east where it becomes the Linyati River until further east it gives rise to the Chobe River, eventually flowing into the Zambezi. At the end of the dry season the Cuando-Linyata-Chobe system along with the Okavango Delta are the only consistent sources of water in northern Botswana. Because of this and because the wildlife of Chobe National Park are protected from hunting, come the dry season the Chobe waterfront is like a magnificent outdoor zoo where safari travelers view wildlife across the unobstructed views of the treeless plains. This area has one of the largest concentrations of wildlife across the whole of Africa!

Herds of Zebra and Impala and a troop of Baboons on the plains along the Chobe River

We were not to be disappointed! Herds of elephant, impala, zebra, buffalo, kudu, and giraffe filled the plains along with warthogs, waterfowl, baboon, crocodile, hippopotamus, and to many species of waterfowl to mention them all. But the thrill for me was seeing for the first time in my life a herd of the ultra shy sable antelope trot down to the water, quickly engorge themselves and flee back into the bush. These incredibly beautiful creatures, seldom seen at close range are extremely difficult to capture on camera. It was worth the price of admission. This plethora of hoofed animals, essentially prey items also attract the majestic African predators including lion, cheetah, and leopard and not so majestic jackal and hyena.

A herd of the majestic Sable Antelope stop for a quick drink at a waterhole along the Chobe waterfront

Chobe National Park and the Chobe waterfront are truly without parallel in Africa and I encourage you to try and visit at least once in your lifetime. It is not as expensive as you might think and GrassTrack Safaris is here to help you make this a dream that does not escape you.

Our next blog will cover more on Chobe National Park.  

A scout troop of young male lions rests in the shade of a Mopane Tree along the Chobe River

A Leopard hides in the bush attempting to avoid detection by a herd of Impala

Our New Video: The Buffalo Safari

Cape Buffalo

We just posted a new video describing our Buffalo Safari.  Join our mobile camping safari as we journey through the game parks of Moremi, Chobe, and the Victoria Falls.

In this video we'll show you just what to expect from our safaris and many of the animals we encountered along the way.

 Enjoy!

One of our Bush Campsites

From Moremi to Savuti - Day 3

Rising to the chill of the air on Day 3 of our safari into Moremi and Chobe National Park we all were feeling like old hats at this safari thing. We began to settle into a nice, relaxing routine and knew the expectations placed on us by our guides. Morning breakfast with tea and coffee was taken care of by Tosu our Assistant Guide/Cook; out with Prince on a game drive by 8am including a mid-morning fruit break; back to camp at noon to assist Tosu with lunch, then a siesta and shower, and out by 2pm for our evening game drive, and back to camp by dusk (6pmish) to assist Tosu with dinner preparations including cocktails and lively after dinner conversation around the campfire or possibly another shower or the first shower of the day. As exciting and busy as our schedule was it was also incredibly relaxing and spiritually cleansing. This morning was a bit different as we arrived back to camp from our morning game drive around 10am, broke camp, backed the safari vehicle, and were off to our next campsite before noon. While on safari, your days are full of activity and your nights spent soundly in a deep sleep (except for awakening to the occasional intrusion of a hippo or honey badger in camp). A GrassTrack’s safari is an experience that everyone should strive for at least once if not multiple times in their lives, and fairly inexpensive to boot!

A pair of female Chacma baboons with their children

While out on our morning game drive we came across a troop of Chacma baboons crossing Third Bridge in Moremi. Baboons are fascinating animals, highly intelligent with complex social structures. I could watch baboons interact for hours on end. There are interactions to watch between mother and child, young children at play, and the complex interrelationships between adults of dominate and subordinate status. It thrills to watch all of these interactions unfold before your eyes. A baboon society is matriarchal in structure with a dominate female and her offspring at the top of the hierarchy, then the second most dominant female followed by her offspring and so one done the line. While on safari years ago I was hiking at Victoria Falls amongst a troop of baboons when suddenly, all hell broke out. I became in snarled in the middle of a fight between a dominant female and two subordinates, next in line for the throne. It was both exhilarating to watch and frightening as hell. For a fascinating take on the extreme intelligence and the complex social structure of baboons read the article at the following link:

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2003/11/031117074640.htm 

Chacma baboons cross Thrid Bridge in Moremi

A dominant female defends her role as troop leader

After our morning game drive we broke camp and headed towards our second campsite in the Savute region of Chobe National Park. During our drive we came across a large area of savanna recently burned by a massive fire. Our safari was taking place in October, right at the end of the dry season, just before life giving rains return to this part of Africa. The landscape was parched and brown. Anyone who has traveled by car across the grass and shrublands of the Great Basin in western U.S. or the grassland steppe of eastern Colorado, Wyoming, right up to Calgary in Canada during the end of August knows exactly the type of landscape I am talking about. Months without rain have left the grass cured and dry. Fires are common in such ecosystems and are necessary for the proper function of the landscape. They supply the life giving nutrients vital to the sustaining the biodiversity of the ecosystem. They return life giving nutrients of phosphorus to the soil almost as if the fires know the rains are returning soon and that the grasses will be springing back to life, craving nutrients that the fire will release from them. As a biologist it was fascinating to see this ecosystem still functioning as it has for 1000s of years. Quite a contrast to the familiar landscapes of eastern Colorado where I live and work, where the landscape is fragmented by development and agriculture, and where fires are suppressed or controlled if they occur at all. For further reading on the vital role fire has on African savannas go to the following link:

http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/exhibits/biomes/grasslands.php

 Fire plays an important role in maintaining the ecological integrity of the African savanna

You won’t want to miss our coming week’s blogs as we relate our exciting encounters with leopards, lions, and a host of other wildlife along the Chobe Waterfront.

Camping in the African Night

Our bush camp at night

In some ways, night is my favorite time on safari.  As the campsite quiets down I lie in my sleeping bag thinking back on the day's game sightings and listening for sounds of the African night.  I can make out the stars through the tent's mesh window.  I'm tired from an exciting day in the bush but I fight off sleep so I can listen for the sounds of the night.  Far off I hear the roar of a lion and then the plaintive howl of a hyena.  In the mopane trees above the camp an African Scops owl calls into the night with its repeating single note.  Then a twig snaps near the tent.  I immediately recall the story Prince told us after dinner and my thoughts race to identify the cause of the snapping branch.   On the morning after our first night camping it was made obvious that my tent partner and I were enthusiastic snorers.  The next night we moved our tents a little away from the main group.  Prince told us that on the previous trip two guys who were snoring woke up in the morning with a ring of lion tracks around their tent.   Evidently, the lions came during the night to investigate the snoring.  But sleep takes over and I drift off imagining a lion sniffing my tent during the night as he wonders what could be making that strange sound....

Lions during a night drive

Camping in the bush provides an unparalleled experience of the African night.  On a GrassTrack safari you will experience the night in a wide variety of habitats.  Besides sitting next to the campfire or lying in the tent looking at the stars, taking a night drive is an amazing introduction to the nocturnal animals of Africa.  Many of the smaller mammals become active while others begin their hunt for food.  Botswana's parks do not allow night drives, however night drives are allowed in the Kwai concession in northern Botswana.  This concession is managed by the local Kwai community and is adjacent to both Moremi and Chobe.  GrassTrack Safaris can arrange a night drive for you and it's an experience not to be missed.

We set out after dark for a few hours and search the rivers, grasslands and treetops with a powerful spotlight.  As we scan the surrounding landscape with the light you'll see the reflection of many eyes staring back at you.  It's a great opportunity to see nocturnal animals not normally active in daylight, like pangolins or bushbabies.  On night drives in Zambia, Botswana, and South Africa,  I've seen hippos walking through the bush as they search for grazing, genets, civets, elephants, various antelopes on high alert for predators, owls, elephant shrews, leopard kills hanging from tree branches, and an up close view of a lion pride with cubs.  We spend 2-3 hours searching for game before returning to camp. 

Around the campfire

Since our campsites are located in the remote bush and unfenced, it's not unusual to have nocturnal visitors.  Once the campsite quiets down, hyenas and jackals patrol the edges of camp looking for any scraps.  A strong flashlight is useful to scan beyond the fire and will show the eye reflections of any animals nearby.  We were awoken in the middle of the night once to the clattering of pots and pans.  It was pair of honey badgers looking for leftovers.  This is why it's important to keep a clean camp and certainly no food in your tent!

As I stumble out of the tent at 6am the next morning I take a quick look around for any animal tracks.  Not seeing any I make my way to the campfire for a cup of coffee to prepare for another day of game drives.  Daylight is, of course, when you'll see the most game but night brings out a new side of Africa.  You'll have to depend on your ears not your eyes to appreciate the night environment.  Whether you're sitting around the fire listening for animals or enjoying the excitement of a night drive, camping in the bush is the ultimate introduction to the magic of the African night.

Moremi Game Reserve - Day 2

A quiet morning in camp

When on safari, the morning comes early. It must have been 5 am, still dark, and being a light sleeper I was awakened by the sounds of Tosu preparing breakfast. The official wake-up call from Prince came about one hour later, around 6 am. Breakfast consisted of cold cereal, milk, yogurt, fresh bread, which Tosu cooked over our campfire the night before, complimented with a selection of jams, jelly's, marmalade, and peanut butter. Enough to satisfy every one's palette. Needless to say we all moved at varying rates of slow as we wiped the sleep from our eyes. Coffee and tea were much needed stimulants, assisting us into our day; a day that would be filled with incredible game viewing. I believe that travel in Africa truly is a life changing experience and our second day in Moremi Game Reserve would affirm those sentiment.

  Chacma baboon - Carmine bee-eater - Cape buffalo

  Burchell's zebra - Yellow-billed hornbill - African elephant

 

Breakfast was finished, dishes were washed, faces splashed with water, and teeth cleaned all within a few hours and we were out of camp by 8 am. Our first morning game drive in front of us, we were filled with excitement as camp disappeared down the two track road behind us. We were not to be disappointed and by days end we had seen so many different animals it's hard to recount them all. A troop of chacma baboons, lilac-breasted rollers, carmine bee-eaters, African elephants, impala, Burchell's zebra, wildebeest, great egrets, cape buffalo, giraffe, yellow-billed hornbill, saddle-billed stork, warthogs, red lechwe, blacksmith lapwing, and hammerkop to name a few. At sunset it was all topped off with what was to that point the most incredible leopard sighting I have ever had. A sighting that would be outdone by an event that awaited us only days in our future.

 Wildebeest - Lilac breasted roller -  Impala

Red lechwe - Hammerkop - Leopard or lion track

 

As the sun slid lower into the horizon, tired and looking forward to dinner at camp, Prince stopped short in the road and peered at the ground outside his driver side window. "Lion tracks!'  He exclaimed in an excited voice. From our tired, zombie like states we all snapped to attention and began to scan the horizon for lions. Prince followed the tracks down a two track road until we came to a herd of impala grazing in an opening. We all looked wildly about the view in front of us until suddenly in my binoculars I spotted something in a tree a long distance off and exclaimed, "their it is." I thought I had jumped the gun because lions don't normally climb trees. They're ground dwellers. It wasn't a lion at all, but a leopard that appeared to be sleeping off a recent meal while splayed out, belly down, on the broad limb of a mopane tree. It was an incredible site and we sat watching the leopard watch us until the dim light of dusk obscured its image from our vision. Thoroughly satisfied with the days events we fired up the Land Rover and headed for camp, dinner, and a much needed night of sleep.

Leopard lounging in a mopane tree

Watching the leopard watch us

Sunset over the Moremi bush

 Return next week to here more tales of our latest adventure to Africa!

The Painted Dogs of Africa

African wild dog, Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana

We thought we take a break from our safari travelogue and post an article about the natural history, conservation, and our sightings of African wild dogs, also known as painted dogs.  They are such fascinating and rare animals they deserve a post of their own.

The African wild dog was once a common predator throughout Africa.  Unfortunately wild dog populations have plummeted and they have now become the second most endangered carnivore on the continent.  Its success as a predator and its cooperative behavior have not been enough to prevent the effects of habitat fragmentation, conflict with humans, and death by road kill and disease (since they are related to canids, it is thought wild dogs are susceptible to diseases carried by domestic dogs).   African wild dogs are thought to number no more than 3,000-5,000 individuals.

Historically wild dogs once roamed the savanna of northern, eastern, and southern Africa.  Currently wild dogs are found in Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and South Africa and most likely only in protected areas or on their periphery.  The extensive wilderness of northern Botswana offers the best chance on the continent to see wild dogs.  Their territory covers about 200 sq miles and so they require huge tracks of land for hunting and raising pups.  Chobe, Moremi, and the Okavango Delta provide a vast, contiguous stretch of habitat which supports a healthy population.

Waiting for the pack before setting out for an evening hunt.

The African wild dog is a beautiful animal with large, rounded ears and a mottled coat of black, white, and tan.  Their Latin name, Lycaon pictus, means "painted wolf".  The coat pattern is unique among individuals and the white tail tip and tan forehead are the only features common to all wild dogs.  

They stand about 30 inches and weigh from 55-70 lbs.   Pack sizes are generally around twenty dogs though this can range from less than ten to well over twenty.  Each pack is lead by a dominant, breeding pair of adults.  Only the alpha pair breeds and the other pack members assist in hunting and raising the litter.  Unusual among social mammals, it is the females that emigrate from the natal pack while the males remain behind.  Unlike their canid relatives, the pack members display little aggression toward each other.  Wild dogs are cooperative hunters and share food after a kill.  Their main prey are medium sized antelopes like the impala, lechwe or reedbuck.  When a victim is selected the dogs will chase down the prey until it reaches exhaustion.  Wild dogs aren't faster than antelopes, they simply have more endurance.  The prey is ripped apart while still alive and the dogs gorge on the entrails and meat.  Wild dogs usually hunt in the early evening or early morning.  They are efficient and successful hunters with 80% of hunts ending in a kill.  Compare this to lions, whose hunting success rate is only around 30% and you have to wonder who Africa's top predator really is!

Gorging a freshly killed impala

Since African wild dogs roam so widely it is a lucky sight to see a pack, let alone a kill.  On our 2009 safari in the Moremi we came very close to witnessing a kill.  We didn't see the kill but found a pack very soon after they had taken down an impala.  Our group left the campsite along the Kwai River around sunrise.  After watching a lioness for few minutes we continued on and came upon a few vehicles gathered along the roadside watching something.  As we pulled up we could see  the dogs were in the process of ripping apart an impala (watch a video clip at the bottom of this page).  Some dogs sat off to the side gnawing bones while others, with muzzles stained red from blood, continued feeding at the carcass.  As the dogs fed or when a dog approached the kill, the pack would emit an excited twittering sound (near the end of the video clip below the pups make the sound when running to the adult dog).  This pack had a new litter of about 8 pups.  We were fortunate to see not only the dogs, and a recent kill but the pups as well.  By now the feeding frenzy had died down and the dogs started to disperse.  The pups were playing in the sun under the careful watch of the adults.  Finally, in response to some cue unknown to us, the dogs trotted off into the bush.

After the kill

We would see another pack in Savuti as they prepared for the evening hunt but to see a fresh kill and the pups was truly a lucky and unforgettable sight.

My first wild dog sighting was in the Ruaha National Park, Tanzania on a self-drive safari with John and two other friends.  Our group had training in ecology and mammology and knowing how rare the dogs were, seeing them was a top priority.   Upon arrival at Ruaha we immediately asked the rangers if wild dogs were in the area.  On our map he pointed where he thought a den was located and to increase our chances we should be out searching in the late afternoon.  After a few hours of driving the sun was sinking below the hills and we thought we'd missed our chance at seeing wild dogs.  In the last light, someone yelled "hyena!".  It's not a dog, but worth a look.  The hyena didn't look like a hyena, but in fact was a wild dog running straight toward us.  We turned the engine off and waited.  The dog came around a bush, saw us, stopped for a few seconds and continued on.  A few seconds later another dog appeared, then another, and another.  We counted 12 dogs, either heading out to hunt or returning to the den.  It was a special sighting for us since there was no other groups nearby and the experience felt like it was ours alone. 

Sadly, if you want to see wild painted dogs you should plan a trip to Africa soon.  Our safaris visit one of their last strongholds in northern Botswana so the chances are good you'll see a pack.  There are a number of organizations dedicated to the conservation of wild dogs.  To learn more, visit these sites:

African Wild Dog Conservation
Painted Dog Conservation
The Botswana Predator Conservation Trust

Source for this post: The Behavior Guide to African Mammals by Richard Estes; 1991.

To see a brief clip of the dogs and hear their unique twittering vocalizations, click the link below:

GrassTrack Safaris Presentation, Fort Collins, CO

GrassTrack Safaris will be hosting a free presentation about our African travels on Thursday March 10, 2011 at Jax Outdoor Gear, CO from 6-8pm.  Please join us to learn more about our safaris, African wildlife, and to hear about our past adventures traveling in Africa.

Jax Outdoor Gear is located at 1200 N College Avenue, Fort Collins, CO.  Take College Avenue north of the Poudre River for approximately 6 blocks and Jax is on the right..

For more info, drop me an email: John@grasstracksafaris.com

Hope to see you there!

Moremi Game Reserve and Our First Night in the Bush

Moremi Game Reserve and the Mopane Tongue

After finishing lunch and getting back onto the road we headed toward what would be our camping destination for the next two nights, Xakanaxa (pronounced zakanaka). Xakanaxa is situated in the lush northern region of the Moremi Game Reserve, a unique area made up of permanent delta waterways, vast floodplains, a lagoon and dry woodlands. The reserve consists of a network of waterways surrounding two large land masses: Chiefs Island in the centre of the Delta and forested Mopane Tongue in the east. The area's diverse ecosystems, riverine woodland, floodplains, wetlands with reed beds, mopane woodland, and dry savanna woodland, broken only by the occasional jeep track, are all packed with game. We would be spending the next two days on the Mopane Tongue of which Xakanaxa is at the eastern tip. The Tongue gets its name from the Mopane Tree, which has very distinctive and beautiful butterfly like leaves.

Mopane Tree

Mopane leaf

Getting upclose and personal with the elephants

On our drive to Xakanaxa we came across a large herd of elephant and for the first time on our trip had the opportunity to get close to these magnificent beasts. We watched mesmerized as these two tonned behemoths ambled through the grassland. Cows ripping huge junks of native grasses from the earth with their trunks to feed on, while calves suckled at their breasts.  Cameras, binoculars, video cams went into action as all 12 of us safari participants lost ourselves in what was a galvanizing moment.

 

Mother and child

A male lion takes a break from hunting beneath a Mopane Tree

As we continued on towards our first bush camp at Xakanxa we came across another safari group in a broken down Land Rover. Evidently they had gotten two flat tires and with no spares remaining their African driver had left on foot, walking to a ranger station for help. A somewhat interesting decision on the drivers part given the abundant wild animals of the surroundings. Moments after leaving the stranded vehicle we noted the driver walking along the road we traveled on about a mile across the savanna in front of us. I thought, good, at least we can give him a lift, but as we approached within a football fields length we took a fork to our left and immediately came across two huge male lions snoozing under the shade of a large mopane tree. All within a shouting ditance of the walking driver. Our guide Prince commented that the driver on foot had no idea the lions were here and lions, whether sated or not, will never pass on an easy kill. After leaving the lions we returned to the fork and continued on our course to collect the walking driver. Although the conversation was in Swetsa, once we reached the driver I got the impression our guide Prince, who had a wealth of experience in the bush, was giving the driver a lecture on bush safety. All in all it was a very interesting experience.

One of our campsites

Evening cocktails at camp

With the excitement of the day behind us, and after a long and dusty drive, we finally reached our Xakanaxa campsite. Unclear on what to expect, we all stood around until Prince and Tosu opened the trailer with all of our gear and started unloading it. Immediately we all stepped up to help and the entire load of backpacks, camping gear, sleeping pads, tables and chairs, and other equipment was quickly unloaded. Next Prince assigned all of us our own individually numbered tents and also sleeping bags for those of us without them. Within certain guidelines of distance from camp center, as explained by Prince, we were all allowed to pick our own tent sites and pitch our tents. Some of us with less tenting experience were a bit baffled by how to erect the tents, but with help from each other, Prince, and Tosu in short order all the tents were erected. The dome tents proved roomy and large enough to stand in. While this was going on Prince and Tosu erected our ablutions (outdoor latrine and showers), started a fire, and all of us helped set up the camp tables and chairs. Once all of this was completed Tosu, with the help of a few of us safari participants, began to prepare dinner. Without actually asking, Tosu was happy to accept the help of a rotating crew of two or three people with preparing lunch and dinner, which simply consisted of acting as a prep chef. Once prep work was completed Tosu finished the cooking on his own. With dinner in preparation us safari participants retreated to the tables for cocktails, beer, and good conversation recounting the exciting events of the day. This was the itinerary we were to follow for the next six evenings and over its course we all became closely acquainted with each other and formed, what for some of us would be life long, friendships.

After dinner at the campfire

Return next week when we will blog about the wild dogs of Moremi and S, our destination after leaving the Moremi Game Reserve.

GrassTrack Safaris Presentation, Lebanon, NH

Botswana Campsite, Chobe National Park

GrassTrack Safaris will be hosting a free presentation about our African travels on Thursday March 3, 2011 at the Fireside Inn in Lebanon, NH from 7-9pm.  Please join us to learn more about our safaris, African wildlife, and to hear about our past adventures traveling in Africa.

The Fireside Inn is located on 25 Airport Road, Lebanon, NH.  Take exit 20 off I-89 and follow the signs (it's behind LaValley Building Suppy). 

For more info, drop me an email: dan@grasstracksafaris.com

Hope to see you there!

Buffalo Safari - Day 1

In the last blog you read short descriptions of each of the seven safaris that GrassTrack offers. We encourage you to visit our website for full details on each of our safaris and updates on new safaris as they are added.

One of our offerings is the Buffalo Safari and in this and the next several blogs we will discuss GrassTrack’s recent adventures while out on the Buffalo Safari in Botswana. This adventure safari is perfect for those with limited time, but still wishing to visit the best wilderness areas in Botswana. Starting in Maun, Botswana and ending in Livingstone, Zambia, this seven day safari is long on adventure yet affordable for those traveling on a budget. The Buffalo Safari passes through the Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park, two areas that offer some of the best wildlife viewing in Africa. Moremi was established in 1962 and at the time it was the only reserve in Africa created by local people. All reserves prior to 1962 were established by colonial governments. Moremi supports an astonishing amount and variety of wildlife including over 400 species of birds.

The comfortable and roomy safari vehicle

The first morning of our journey was spent collecting the 12 members partaking in the safari and purchasing water for the trip, a task trip participants are responsible for and accomplished under the tutelage of our African guide Prince. This was an important task, as we would be spending the next seven days in the semi-arid grasslands and bush of northern Botswana where afternoon temperatures can top 100° F and drinking water is difficult to come by. Having completed our morning tasks we left Maun by 9 am heading north on a two lane blacktop road towards the entrance to Moremi Game Reserve, and ultimately on to our destination, Xakanaxa, and our first night of bush camping.

Along with Prince and his assistant Tosu, there would be 14 of us traveling in the safari vehicle for the next seven days as we made our way through Moremi and Chobe. The custom Land Rover used on the trip was up to the task. With four rows of extra wide bench seats, room for three in the cab, windowless open sides, a retractable canvas roof, and our gear and food stowed in a pull along enclosed trailer riding behind the vehicle our transport proved roomy, comfortable, and offered 360° views for all.

There wasn't a bad seat in the vehicle for viewing the wildlife we encountered upon entering Moremi Game Reserve

Moremi's South Gate

The trip to Moremi from Maun is a three hour drive, as we traveled along the road, blacktop gave way to gravel and the morning chill gave way to a warm breeze blowing in from the open sides of the Land Rover. About one hour into the drive we pulled off the road to enjoy a stretch break and some fresh fruit, a mid-morning break we enjoyed every one of the next seven days while on safari. Over the course of the week these fruit breaks included apples, oranges, and pears among other fruits. A few hours latter we arrived at the South Gate of Moremi Game Reserve. Once inside the reserve boundaries we began to see game animals along the sides of the road, Impala and Kudu, among others. Outside of Africa's reserves and national parks there are few animals as local people engage in subsistence hunting to meet there food needs.

A Kudo stands alert

Members of our safari group scan the horizon for animals

About an hour inside of South Gate we drove off the main gravel road onto a dirt two track, eventually making our way to a large waterhole with a herd of elephant and troop of baboons on the distant shore. This is where we were to have our first safari lunch and a perfect spot it was, affording magnificent bird watching. We pulled up under the shade of a large tree and Tosu opened one side of the trailer holding our gear to reveal a pantry of food including meat, bread, which Tosu had baked fresh days before, cheese, salads, and other stables. As Tosu, with help from a few members of our safari group, began to prepare our lunch, the rest of us reached for our binoculars and began to scan the horizon for the abundant eagles, hawks, waterfowl, elephants, and baboons that had come to the waterhole to hunt, feed, and drink. Eventually, we turned our attention to the food and dug in to a tasty lunch of tuna sandwiches, salad, and fruit. Riding in a vehicle for hours isn't physically demanding, but traveling can be exhausting and our appetites were ravenous. Having completed lunch we mounted the Land Rover and began our drive to our first bush campsite at Xakanaxa. Return next week when we will detail our final approach to Xakanaxa and describe what our first bush camping experience was actually like.

A Reed Cormorant fans its wings at our lunch spot waterhole