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Monday, March 28, 2011

Moremi Game Reserve - Day 2

A quiet morning in camp
When on safari, the morning comes early. It must have been 5 am, still dark, and being a light sleeper I was awakened by the sounds of Tosu preparing breakfast. The official wake-up call from Prince came about one hour later, around 6 am. Breakfast consisted of cold cereal, milk, yogurt, fresh bread, which Tosu cooked over our campfire the night before, complimented with a selection of jams, jelly's, marmalade, and peanut butter. Enough to satisfy every one's palette. Needless to say we all moved at varying rates of slow as we wiped the sleep from our eyes. Coffee and tea were much needed stimulants, assisting us into our day; a day that would be filled with incredible game viewing. I believe that travel in Africa truly is a life changing experience and our second day in Moremi Game Reserve would affirm those sentiment.


  Chacma baboon - Carmine bee-eater - Cape buffalo


  Burchell's zebra - Yellow-billed hornbill - African elephant
 
Breakfast was finished, dishes were washed, faces splashed with water, and teeth cleaned all within a few hours and we were out of camp by 8 am. Our first morning game drive in front of us, we were filled with excitement as camp disappeared down the two track road behind us. We were not to be disappointed and by days end we had seen so many different animals it's hard to recount them all. A troop of chacma baboons, lilac-breasted rollers, carmine bee-eaters, African elephants, impala, Burchell's zebra, wildebeest, great egrets, cape buffalo, giraffe, yellow-billed hornbill, saddle-billed stork, warthogs, red lechwe, blacksmith lapwing, and hammerkop to name a few. At sunset it was all topped off with what was to that point the most incredible leopard sighting I have ever had. A sighting that would be outdone by an event that awaited us only days in our future.


 Wildebeest - Lilac breasted roller -  Impala

Red lechwe - Hammerkop - Leopard or lion track
 
As the sun slid lower into the horizon, tired and looking forward to dinner at camp, Prince stopped short in the road and peered at the ground outside his driver side window. "Lion tracks!'  He exclaimed in an excited voice. From our tired, zombie like states we all snapped to attention and began to scan the horizon for lions. Prince followed the tracks down a two track road until we came to a herd of impala grazing in an opening. We all looked wildly about the view in front of us until suddenly in my binoculars I spotted something in a tree a long distance off and exclaimed, "their it is." I thought I had jumped the gun because lions don't normally climb trees. They're ground dwellers. It wasn't a lion at all, but a leopard that appeared to be sleeping off a recent meal while splayed out, belly down, on the broad limb of a mopane tree. It was an incredible site and we sat watching the leopard watch us until the dim light of dusk obscured its image from our vision. Thoroughly satisfied with the days events we fired up the Land Rover and headed for camp, dinner, and a much needed night of sleep.

Leopard lounging in a mopane tree


Watching the leopard watch us
Sunset over the Moremi bush

 Return next week to here more tales of our latest adventure to Africa!

Thursday, March 10, 2011

The Painted Dogs of Africa

African wild dog, Savuti, Chobe National Park, Botswana
We thought we take a break from our safari travelogue and post an article about the natural history, conservation, and our sightings of African wild dogs, also known as painted dogs.  They are such fascinating and rare animals they deserve a post of their own.

The African wild dog was once a common predator throughout Africa.  Unfortunately wild dog populations have plummeted and they have now become the second most endangered carnivore on the continent.  Its success as a predator and its cooperative behavior have not been enough to prevent the effects of habitat fragmentation, conflict with humans, and death by road kill and disease (since they are related to canids, it is thought wild dogs are susceptible to diseases carried by domestic dogs).   African wild dogs are thought to number no more than 3,000-5,000 individuals.

Historically wild dogs once roamed the savanna of northern, eastern, and southern Africa.  Currently wild dogs are found in Tanzania, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and South Africa and most likely only in protected areas or on their periphery.  The extensive wilderness of northern Botswana offers the best chance on the continent to see wild dogs.  Their territory covers about 200 sq miles and so they require huge tracks of land for hunting and raising pups.  Chobe, Moremi, and the Okavango Delta provide a vast, contiguous stretch of habitat which supports a healthy population.

Waiting for the pack before setting out for an evening hunt.
The African wild dog is a beautiful animal with large, rounded ears and a mottled coat of black, white, and tan.  Their Latin name, Lycaon pictus, means "painted wolf".  The coat pattern is unique among individuals and the white tail tip and tan forehead are the only features common to all wild dogs.  

They stand about 30 inches and weigh from 55-70 lbs.   Pack sizes are generally around twenty dogs though this can range from less than ten to well over twenty.  Each pack is lead by a dominant, breeding pair of adults.  Only the alpha pair breeds and the other pack members assist in hunting and raising the litter.  Unusual among social mammals, it is the females that emigrate from the natal pack while the males remain behind.  Unlike their canid relatives, the pack members display little aggression toward each other.  Wild dogs are cooperative hunters and share food after a kill.  Their main prey are medium sized antelopes like the impala, lechwe or reedbuck.  When a victim is selected the dogs will chase down the prey until it reaches exhaustion.  Wild dogs aren't faster than antelopes, they simply have more endurance.  The prey is ripped apart while still alive and the dogs gorge on the entrails and meat.  Wild dogs usually hunt in the early evening or early morning.  They are efficient and successful hunters with 80% of hunts ending in a kill.  Compare this to lions, whose hunting success rate is only around 30% and you have to wonder who Africa's top predator really is!

Gorging a freshly killed impala
Since African wild dogs roam so widely it is a lucky sight to see a pack, let alone a kill.  On our 2009 safari in the Moremi we came very close to witnessing a kill.  We didn't see the kill but found a pack very soon after they had taken down an impala.  Our group left the campsite along the Kwai River around sunrise.  After watching a lioness for few minutes we continued on and came upon a few vehicles gathered along the roadside watching something.  As we pulled up we could see  the dogs were in the process of ripping apart an impala (watch a video clip at the bottom of this page).  Some dogs sat off to the side gnawing bones while others, with muzzles stained red from blood, continued feeding at the carcass.  As the dogs fed or when a dog approached the kill, the pack would emit an excited twittering sound (near the end of the video clip below the pups make the sound when running to the adult dog).  This pack had a new litter of about 8 pups.  We were fortunate to see not only the dogs, and a recent kill but the pups as well.  By now the feeding frenzy had died down and the dogs started to disperse.  The pups were playing in the sun under the careful watch of the adults.  Finally, in response to some cue unknown to us, the dogs trotted off into the bush.
After the kill
We would see another pack in Savuti as they prepared for the evening hunt but to see a fresh kill and the pups was truly a lucky and unforgettable sight.

My first wild dog sighting was in the Ruaha National Park, Tanzania on a self-drive safari with John and two other friends.  Our group had training in ecology and mammology and knowing how rare the dogs were, seeing them was a top priority.   Upon arrival at Ruaha we immediately asked the rangers if wild dogs were in the area.  On our map he pointed where he thought a den was located and to increase our chances we should be out searching in the late afternoon.  After a few hours of driving the sun was sinking below the hills and we thought we'd missed our chance at seeing wild dogs.  In the last light, someone yelled "hyena!".  It's not a dog, but worth a look.  The hyena didn't look like a hyena, but in fact was a wild dog running straight toward us.  We turned the engine off and waited.  The dog came around a bush, saw us, stopped for a few seconds and continued on.  A few seconds later another dog appeared, then another, and another.  We counted 12 dogs, either heading out to hunt or returning to the den.  It was a special sighting for us since there was no other groups nearby and the experience felt like it was ours alone. 

Sadly, if you want to see wild painted dogs you should plan a trip to Africa soon.  Our safaris visit one of their last strongholds in northern Botswana so the chances are good you'll see a pack.  There are a number of organizations dedicated to the conservation of wild dogs.  To learn more, visit these sites:

African Wild Dog Conservation
Painted Dog Conservation
The Botswana Predator Conservation Trust

Source for this post: The Behavior Guide to African Mammals by Richard Estes; 1991.

To see a brief clip of the dogs and hear their unique twittering vocalizations, click the link below: