The Victoria Falls

Dawn over the Victoria Falls

The final days of our amazing safari were spent at the spectacular Victoria Falls.  Following a few days of bush camping among the game in Chobe National Park our group crossed the Zambezi River at Kazungula on the local ferry.  We were soon checked into a comfortable lodge on the banks of the Zambezi.  After a well deserved shower our group climbed back in the Land Cruiser for our last afternoon on safari: spending a few hours exploring the Zambian side of the mighty Victoria Falls.

Victoria Falls is formed by the Zambezi River as it cascades over a 300 foot cliff and follows a series of narrow, zigzagging chasms.   As the Zambezi plunges over the cliff it is over a mile wide, creating the longest curtain of water on Earth.  The falls forms the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, with about a third of the falls accessible from the Zambian side.   We had 3-4 hours to walk the trails on this side of the Falls and tomorrow we'd cross the Zimbabwe border and explore the remainder.  Both sides offer different perspectives of the Falls and though there are trails are shorter along the edge of Zambian side of the Falls you have the opportunity to hike down to the Zambezi River or (if water levels permit) walk across the river above the Falls for thrilling views down the face of the Falls.

Looking down the gorge from Zambia toward Zimbabwe

Our hotel was only a few minutes drive to the entrance of Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.  There's a large curio market here and it's great place to buy almost any kind of African souvenir like drums, carvings, or paintings.  We paid our $10 entry fee and set off.  The park has an excellent network of smooth trails that wind along the edge of the Falls and through the lush forest growing along the rim.  In the wet season it's literally a rain forest with constant water falling from the spray and mist produced as the Zambezi crashes over the cliff.  Excellent views of the Eastern Cataracts and the river itself can be had anywhere.  During the dry season the river shrinks affording great views of the gorge.  The trail winds along the falls and in and out of the forest.  There are plenty of viewpoints with benches tucked under the trees providing a place to sit and simply listen to and watch the falls.  The main trail ends at the Knife Edge overlooking the crack in the basalt cliffs where the Zambezi exits the gorge.  As it leaves the main gorge it makes a ninety degree turn and continues downstream.  This is the Boiling Pot, a launch for white water rafting trips.

The trail now brings you away from the Falls but there's a great view of the Victoria Falls Bridge, linking Zambia and Zimbabwe.  We stopped and watched as bungee jumpers leapt off the 364 foot high bridge to the river below.  Further along there's a second trail that leads to the Boiling Pot.  It's a steep hike down through palm forests and over boulders but well worth the effort.  It ends at the Zambezi River with superb views of the Falls.  There's a good chance of seeing monkeys and baboons along the trail. 

The Eastern Cataracts, Zambia

Once back at the entrance gate we took the trail leading upriver.  The river was low so we made our way across, hopping from rock to rock (we did keep our feet dry) to one of the many islands that dot the rim of the falls.  This certainly was the highlight of our visit.  We sat on the edge of the cliff and watched the river tumble over the rim as the sun slowly sank.

Though our safari had officially ended, we still had one more full day in Africa and so we  decided to visit the Zimbabwean side of the Falls. Different views of the Falls can be seen from this side and there seemed to be a great deal more water as well.  We took a taxi from our hotel to the border post, paid our $50 for a Zimbabwe visa and walked across the Victoria Falls Bridge.  Not one for heights, I tried telling myself that the vertiginous views of the river far below really were spectacular.  I even tried to convince myself that my palms were sweaty from the African heat.  We watched the bungee jumpers (while I stood as far back from the platform as possible without interrupting traffic) then continued on to the park entrance.  From the Zambian border post to the Zimbabwe entrance to the Falls was a hot, one hour walk but well worth it.

The Main Falls, Zimbabwe

At the western end of the Falls is a statue of David Livingstone, the first European to see the Falls, overlooking the Devil's Cataract.  At the Devil's Cataract, the river is eroding along a fault line in the basalt. Come back again in a few million years and the Devil's Cataract will have eroded the basalt behind the current falls, creating a new Victoria Falls.  From the Devil's Cataract we walked towards the Main Falls.  As we approached, the spray from the Falls was starting to soak us.  Keeping our cameras protected from the water we could see rainbows at the base of the falls and clear views of the Falls themselves when the spray cleared.  The trail finally led us to Danger Point, directly across from the Knife Edge and the Eastern Cataracts on the Zambian side.  Keeping clear of the slippery grass we took one last look at Falls, the gorge and the Boiling Pot before heading back to the hotel.

Looking toward the Eastern Cataracts from Zimbabwe

We didn't have the time to take advantage of the wide range of activities available at Victoria Falls.  Maybe during the next visit it'll be a whitewater rafting trip, or plane ride over the Falls, or a tigerfishing expedition.  Or maybe a walk along the park trails during a full moon.  I know one thing for certain: it won't be a bungee jump.

For some brief history and geology of Victoria Falls read this article from our website.